Our First Canal Venture

Here we were then all safe and sound in Calais.  The next step was to arrange for the lock keeper to allow us through the first lock into the canal system. We were all nerves especially since we had walked across from the harbour to have a look at the lock and had not been terribly impressed. The water in the lock was full of debris, including weed, plastic bottles, plastic bags, sticks, and other unmentionable items and decaying "things".  

It was rather late in the afternoon that we were finally able to arrange to leave the harbour and to make our way the short distance around the jetty and into the inner basin. We arrived to find no sign of a lock keeper, but he did finally arrive out of the blue, and with a lot of squealing and screeching of the old capstans and wire ropes the gates were opened.  We gingerly headed forward desperately praying that none of the swirling flotsam was going to give us a problem. Then, having hurriedly closed the gates behind us, and opened the sluice gates the lock keeper ran forward to us and handed  us some papers printed in French indicating that we were to fill in some sort of questionnaire in duplicate. We had some difficulty in understanding what was required, and offered him our newly acquired French Vignette and "papers". Which already had all the information that he should need. He became very agitated and indicated that it was time for him to go home, and if I did not hurry he would leave me locked in for the night.--- Heaven only knows what I wrote on that piece of paper---- still my writing was about as intelligible as the crossword that had been presented to me. Down we went without   incident even having forgotten to loop a rope around a bollard. It was like driving through a "log-  jam"  in a Canadian river. We had entered the lower basin and since it was late and having just escaped from being imprisoned in the lock all night by an irritable "eclusier", we decided to moor up to a conveniently low wall and prepare for an early start next morning.

We had a restless night, with both of us having one eye open, expecting an enormous barge to barge us out of his mooring space. As it was the night was quiet except for the infrequent   PLOP-Plop of some animal?? or bird or something. Babs was never able to reconcile herself to our having to share the canals with other aquatic dwellers, and I think she must have spotted every rat that lived in the French canals.

The largest reptile that I have ever seen was in Epernay in the champagne country. Thank heavens Babs didn't see it. It was as big as a terrier dog. To this day I cannot be sure whether it was a Coypu or an Otter.

Two incidents come to mind that have given us and the rest of the family reason to laugh when we tell the story. It wasn't long after we had entered the canal system. Babs was still very nervous about having unwelcome rodent visitors on board, and always made a routine of ensuring that every nook and cranny was secure. We had spent a fairly comfortable night hearing only the occasional plop and the regular sucking of the fish around the boat. In the "Invader" we slept in a double V berth which was forward, with our cabin windows directly above us. And on this occasion Babs had been sleeping on her side and casually turned on her back, only to see a very inquisitive rodent face peering at her through the window, only inches away. I think that if she could have climbed into my skin she would have done. Then on a later occasion when my son and his wife were travelling with us, they slept outside under the canopy.  It was very hot and I had opened the hatch, much against Babs wishes. During the night it became so hot that I decided to turn top to tail so that my face and chest had the full benefit of the breeze. Babs turned in her sleep and I felt her hand come to rest on my head. There was a pause then an almighty  scream, Ger Ger there's an animal in the bed. "That’s my head you silly sausage". ------ I was bruised black and blue in the morning--------  A few moments later my son and daughter broke into uncontrollable laughter. And the rest of the night was broken again and again with fits of laughter as they recalled the incident.

I digress.    We were up at the crack of dawn, coffee and toast nothing else we were too excited. We had braved our first lock, encountered our first eclusier, and we were of to the next part of the adventure. A swing-bridge. We had read and knew all about the protocol of lights and "rights of way", and were well prepared, it was only a couple of hundred yards(metres) away and we approached carefully. There were no other boats or barges around, But that’s funny there are no lights??. We approached a little closer and we could see that the lights were there but were not alight. We had approached too close and were in an area marked clearly no mooring, so we went astern until we had cleared, and waited, and waited, and waited. Suddenly two red lights. Ok some one must have seen us or at least  some thing was working ,or was it. After about another half an hour I decided to tie up and to investigate. Only to find that a car had driven under the crash barrier on the bridge and had jammed up the works.  My school French came into play only to discover that "it has been reported, and the engineer will be here after lunch". So there we were ten minutes of cruising the French canals and tied up for an extended lunch break.    The bridge was finally opened and we were able to continue our journey. It was now getting late in the afternoon, and we were still in the Canal de Calais. We were as yet not fully Au-fait with the pilots we had obtained in Calais and in the best traditions decided to pull in and secure our mooring spikes and tie up. The bank was lined with interlocking metal plates, and  I casually stepped ashore and promptly disappeared down a gap hidden by the dense undergrowth.  Thank heaven for the canopy. We fastened every thing down and settled for the evening, not overly impressed with every thing, expecting worse to come, since we had read about the green slime that clogs the filters.  As it happens we saw no green slime and having started of early the following morning were mortified to find a lovely little mooring just a little way further on. It was at that point that Babs took over all navigation plans and the logbook.

I suppose one could go on and on describing in detail every step of the journey, but I will not bore you with details.  You will find that as you journey on, all your forebodings will melt away, you will adapt to the different challenges and over come them. We found that the most difficult locks to manage were the smaller locks that were over full so that the hull of the boat tended to overlap the wall. Care had to be taken, as the water was let out, that your hull did not foul the wall and become damaged. And if you are in an ascending lock that your hull does not ride over the wall as you drive out.  The all  imposing monster locks are the easiest locks to handle, with their sliding bollards and bollards spaced conveniently up the wall.

A  word of warning.  Do not allow any one on board to put a leg over the side, for what ever reason, whilst in or leaving a lock.      We learned the hard way. We had been ushered into a fairly wide lock in the company of three barges. We were last in. It was an ascending lock for us, and having filled, two of the barges left and the Bargee of the third waved us through. We were quite close against the wall, and I engaged gear, moving very slowly forward. We had travelled some twenty or thirty feet when I noticed the lock keeper running towards the front of my boat. I disengaged gear and looked to see what was wrong. All I could see was an arm and a leg crooked around the steel stanchion. Babs had put a foot over the top of the rail to push of and had slipped on the slime and fallen between the boat and the wall of the lock, but had sufficient survival instinct to hang on for grim death. She was not seriously hurt but was very badly bruised and shaken. Having hauled her back on board,  I pulled forward out of the lock and moored up quickly to check that she was all right. We were both very disturbed and shocked, and a little tearful.  

We continued our journey not quite knowing whether we wanted to go on or not, and it was at that time that we came to a pleasant mooring where two British boats were all ready moored up. There wasn't quite enough room for me to moor, and I was just about to fume that two Brits had hogged the jetty when there was a hail from two couples from the bank obviously returning from a shopping trip. Shouting hang on we will move up. These were two couples who were frequent visitors to France and were the ones who encouraged us to carry on. We enjoyed this camaraderie  from almost every boat we met in the canals, and since in the Med.

Another couple we met were a Dutch couple they had a beautiful Dutch steel boat. They had removed its mast and were spending an extended holiday in the canal system. We met them whilst waiting for the towing barge at the well known and long tunnel at Snt Quentin. We were chatting and I told him I was a little nervous about going through the tunnel  since my steering was dependant on propulsion of my Duo-prop out drive. No problem ! I will go "lead" you tie up behind me and I will steer you straight.  We had only been travelling for about 5 minutes when he appeared on the stern of his boat calling me to shorten the tow lines. Every thing was now going well. About 10 to 15 minutes later I spotted him on the side deck of his boat, he jumped onto the tow- path and came back to us. He handed me an enormous plate of pancakes with wish of " bon appetite. ".  His wife later told us that she hated the tunnels and that she had decided to do some cooking to busy her mind.  That tunnel was long, but relatively easy. I do not know how things are at the height of the season when ten or twenty boats are on tow. You do hear stories. We encountered several tunnels on our two trips . It is essential to have a very good arc lamp, because some are unlit. and take good care to observe the light signals. I always had the dread that I would find myself half way through only to find a massive barge entering the tunnel from the oposite end.

More to follow